washington dc

Freedom Plaza Part I: Origins

This is Part I of a III Part series. Please join and support us on Patreon to read the the rest!

Statue of Jack Sisson. One of more than a dozen new statues added to Freedom Plaza over the past year.

Over the past calendar year downtown DC’s Freedom Plaza has been transformed and updated, with some changes permanent and others temporary. Reopening this summer after a long closure dating back to the early winter months, the plaza has seen the addition of a cadre of statues, updated quotations, and a renovated water fountain. In this series, I will explore the origins of Freedom Plaza, some of the key infrastructure changes, cover each of the new statues including who (or what) they commemorate, and how the meaning of Freedom Plaza has changed over the last 40 years.

Part I: Origins of Freedom Plaza

Freedom Plaza is the name of a rectangular, city block-sized park located just southeast of the White House and north of the National Mall area. The park is bounded by 13th Street, 14th Street, and a split Pennsylvania Ave on the north and south sides, although some maps still label the north side of Penn Ave as E Street. Across the southern edge of Freedom Plaza is the John A. Wilson Building, the home of DC's local municipal government. The Wilson Building has its own adjacent statues, Alexander Shepherd and Marion Barry.

Freedom Plaza dates back to 1980 and was originally named Western Plaza. In 1974 a new Congressionally established agency, the Pennsylvania Avenue Development Corporation (PADC), created a report to guide the next few decades of growth along the Avenue corridor. The PADC’s main goal was to revitalize the portion of the Avenue between the White House and the Capitol. In order to accomplish this goal, they set ambitious objectives including making Pennsylvania Avenue more attractive and practical for pedestrians, preserving existing historic structures on the Avenue and its side streets, and establishing new spaces for commercial, residential, and cultural venues. The PADC’s work spanned from basic projects like repaving the roadway and sidewalk landscaping all the way to establishing complex public-private partnerships with developers to create new buildings that aligned with PADC plans. 

Illustration of the area around Western Plaza before it was consolidated into an actual park.

1952 pre-Western Plaza photo of the Veterans Information Center and Shepherd statue, in front of the District Building.

The proposal that resulted in the creation of Western Plaza leaned on the original L’Enfant plan of Washington, which included a plaza on this site. In the late 1970s, this area was bisected by car travel lanes of Pennsylvania Avenue (see illustration above). On each side of the thoroughfare were two smaller existing pocket parks, one of which already held a statue of General Casimir Pulaski (now in Freedom Plaza), and the other a statue of Alexander Shepherd (now at the Wilson Building).

One of the goals of Western Plaza was to better frame and present the District Building (now known as the John A. Wilson Building) from Pennsylvania Ave, as well as any future buildings on the land next to the District Building. Those lots ended up becoming the massive Ronald Reagan Building and International Trade Center. The design of Western Plaza is credited to the firm Venturi, Rauch & Scott Brown with additional contributions from George E. Patton.

Freedom Plaza (lower right) is one block from the U.S. Treasury and the White House. The domed Trade Center building is seen at center.

The plaza was planned to be a place for workers or visitors to escape the busy city sidewalks, despite much of the plaza being an open stone plinth with little tree cover or seating. The main artistic element is an oversized blueprint style, 1887-era map of the L’Enfant plan, specifically the part of the city linking the White House to the U.S. Capitol. Early plans included three dimensional models of the White House and Capitol Building to be placed on the plaza, but those were ultimately scrapped. What did make it into the plaza were multiple historic quotations that are incised across the Plaza’s floor. Quotes range from selections from the Constitution, to literary giants, presidents, civil rights leaders, and others from the first 200 years of American history. Once completed in 1980, the plaza remained essentially static over the past 40 years, except for one big change.

In 1988 the name of Western Plaza was changed to Freedom Plaza to honor Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. 1988 marked 20 years since the assassination of Dr. King and 5 years since his birthday became a federal holiday. King also stayed at the adjacent Willard Hotel before the March on Washington in 1963. To mark the plaza’s name change, a time capsule was placed under the plaza, set to be opened in 100 years time (2088), when we are set to reflect on Dr. King's legacy more than a century after the Civil Rights Movement. The capsule contains one of King’s bibles, a clerical robe, cassette tapes of a number of his speeches, and a special U.S. flag with 51 stars, a nod to potential statehood status for Washington, DC. Dr. King supported local control for the residents of DC, and a version of home rule was passed into law after his death, in 1973. More than a decade later, Congress authorized the King time capsule by Joint Resolution in 1987.

Coretta Scott King and others gather to dedicate Dr. King's time capsule in 1988.

The time capsule before being lowered into the ground.

Since 1980 Freedom Plaza has indeed been a public commons of sorts, acting as a flex space for all types of gatherings. It’s been the home base of protest marches and demonstrations, a stage for musical performances, home to the annual celebration of Emancipation Day in DC, the start & end point to many road races and marathons, witness to every Presidential Inaugural parade since 1980, the location of temporary outdoor exhibitions, and as a transitional space between the National Mall and the commercial area of downtown DC.

Parade for Franklin Roosevelt's third Presidential Inauguration in 1941. This area became Western Plaza 40 years later.

By 2020, the vision for Freedom Plaza and Pennsylvania Avenue established by the PADC had run its course. The National Capital Planning Commission is currently operating under a new plan with a similar name, the Pennsylvania Avenue Initiative

Aside from the greater Pennsylvania Avenue Initiative, over the course of this year, the Plaza has been transformed in accordance with the larger acknowledgments of the 250th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence. A number of statues have been added to the park, ostensibly by the Department of the Interior and the National Park Service. Including a statue of the allegorical Spirit of Liberty, more than a dozen new statues have been added to Freedom Plaza in 2026, all representing men from the era of the American Revolution. The first added and most prominent of the new statues of the group is of Delaware's Caesar Rodney. 

In Part II of this adventure guide we’ll take a close look at the Rodney statue as well as all the new additions, who the new statues represent, what the purpose of the new additions are, how they still qualify as ephemeral even though they are in the form of semi-permanent statuary. And in Part III we’ll tie it all together, diving into the identities of the other new statues on the plinth and what what says about the new narrative of Freedom Plaza.

Continue the journey with Part II: Commemorations on Commemoration and Part III: A New Narrative and a New Reflection.

Want to experience this in person? We see all this and more on our Eyes on Emancipation Pennsylvania Avenue tour. See the tour schedule here or contact us for a private tour.

Six of many temporary (?) additions to Freedom Plaza.

Early plans called for tall monolith-type towers and 3D models of buildings in Western (Freedom) plaza. These never made it into the final design.

Tall monolith towers and seating concepts that are not part of the present day Freedom Plaza landscape.

New Works at the Gallery: Bisa Butler

This week I will be sharing some of my favorite new pieces on display at the Smithsonian American Art Museum and National Portrait Gallery.

Up second is "Patternmaster" by Bisa Butler.

Octavia Butler is one of my favorite authors – but I’m not alone. She was a groundbreaking science fiction author and multiple award winning literary giant whose work perhaps has resonated more even after her passing in 2006.

Butler is known for complex world building while incorporating themes such as racial injustice, gender inequality, environmental degradation, genetic engineering, and human (and sometimes alien) evolution.

In that same world building vein, Bisa Butler (no relation) has used various materials to build this stunning portrait of Octavia Butler. The artist used cotton, silk, vinyl, lace, beads, rhinestones, and other materials that all come together to make a quilt. The quilt is the portrait. Bisa Butler’s layering of fabric and materials mimic the layering of human emotion, speculative fiction, and fantastical scenarios that make Octavia Butler's writing so engaging. Talk about the portrait matching the person. This is it.

Check out yesterday’s post on Roger Brown and stay tuned for the final post tomorrow.✌🏾

Views From the Monument

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Ever since I first visited the Washington, DC in elementary school, the Washington Monument came to indicate the end of long trip. Riding in a school bus from Richmond, the monument was the first sign of DC as we passed through Pentagon City, Crystal City, and the Virginia suburbs. It’s the first part of DC we could actually see from afar. Then came the Jefferson Memorial, Capitol Building, Lincoln Memorial, and the rest of downtown.

Looking up to the monument is something one can do from almost anywhere in the DC area.

Looking down from it is another story. I recently visited the top of the monument and wanted to share a few photos! But, the fact that I was actually able to ride the elevator up to the top was somewhat a feat in and of itself.

When an 5.8 magnitude earthquake centered 85 miles from DC hit in 2011, the Washington Monument was one of the buildings damaged to the extent that it needed to close to visitors immediately. The repairs, mostly to stones near the top of the memorial, took nearly two and a half years. After reopening in 2014, the lone elevator that takes visitors up and down the 555 tall obelisk failed more than two dozen times over the course of the next two years. Starting in 2016 the monument has been closed intermittently for various reasons, including the pandemic. Here’s a very brief timeline:

August 28, 2011: Closed due to damage from the earthquake
May 12, 2014: Opened to great fanfare after all earthquake repairs are complete.
September 26, 2016: Closed after the elevator failed multiple times since 2014.
September 19, 2019: Opened, with a new elevator, electrical, and mechanical systems. The National Parks Service also debuted a small security screening building at the base of the monument.
March 14, 2020: Closed due to public health implications related to the pandemic.
October 1, 2020: Opened with new pandemic mitigation protocols.
December 18-21, 2020: Closed and reopened due to a covid-19 outbreak related to a private tour inside the monument.
January 11, 2021: Closed indefinitely for the upcoming inauguration and the ongoing pandemic.
July 14, 2021: Opened.
August 16, 2021: Closed after a lightening strike caused the electrical systems to malfunction.
August 28, 2021: Opened and remains so to this day.

Did you get all of that?

Since August 28, 2021 the Washington Monument has been open to visitors with timed entry passes. You can secure a ticket on the Recreation.gov website the day before your visit. At this point, there are no same-day tickets available.

Fun fact: When complete, the Monument became the tallest building in the world passing Cologne Cathedral in Germany by 40 feet. That distinction lasted just five years when it was surpassed (at almost twice the height) by the the Eiffel Tower.

For even more photos from the top (40+) and more fun facts about the Monument, check out the Attucks Adams Patreon. And a hearty thanks to all the Patrons who have supported my work over the past year. You are appreciated!

Museum Landscape: What's Open? (Hint: Quite a Few)

The Kogod Courtyard connects the Smithsonian’s American Art Museum and National Portrait Gallery

The Kogod Courtyard connects the Smithsonian’s American Art Museum and National Portrait Gallery

Every industry is moving toward reopening at various and disparate paths. Recently, the DC municipal government laid out a path for a near restriction-free reopening of many types of venues in regards to capacity. Museums are included in the new loosening of capacity restrictions, as they are included in the same category with libraries and galleries. As of June 11, museums will no longer be required to impose capacity restrictions. That doesn't mean they aren't able to do so on their own, but the requirement to do so will be shed. Each museum will also open with their own safety procedures in an effort to keep staff and visitors safe. Mask-wearing and distancing guidelines are likely still going to be implemented regardless of the venue type.

A number of Smithsonian museums and a collection of others are opening this Friday (May 14) or next Monday. By June there will be enough museums open to make a full day or two of exploration possible again.

Please check with each individual institution for ticketing options (many will not have walk-up entry), capacity restrictions, open hours & open days, and whether the exhibition you really wanted to see is actually going to be accessible.

Here's the list of DC's major museums and galleries along with their opening status as of today!

Smithsonian Museums

Open now:
Udvar-Hazy Air and Space Center (Virginia location)

Opening very soon:
National Museum of African American History and Culture (May 14)
American Art Museum AND National Portrait Gallery (May 14)
Renwick Gallery (May 14)
National Museum of American History (May 21)
National Museum of the American Indian (May 21)
National Zoo (May 21)

Still closed for now:
National Museum of African Art, National Air and Space Museum (DC location), Anacostia Community Museum, Arts and Industries Building, Hirshhorn Museum, Freer Gallery of Art, National Museum of Natural History, National Postal Museum, Ripley Center, Sackler Gallery, and the Smithsonian Castle.

Non-Smithsonian Museums

Open now:
National Museum of Women in the Arts
National Building Museum
Planet Word
Phillips Collection
International Spy Museum

Opening very soon:
National Gallery or Art; West Building only (May 14)
United States Holocaust Memorial Museum (May 17)

Still closed for now:
National Archives Museum
National Geographic Museum

Washington Conservatory of Music and School of Expression

902 T Street NW: Former home of the Washington Conservatory of Music and School of Expression

902 T Street NW: Former home of the Washington Conservatory of Music and School of Expression

A rarity at the time of its founding in 1903, the Washington Conservatory of Music was a privately owned, Black founded, and Black run arts institution, specifically created for Black adults and children. The Conservatory educated students about African American musical heritage, and also trained them to play, producing top musicians for decades, until closing in 1960.

Black residents in post-civil war DC set out to cultivate their own musical, economic, and educational institutions due to being locked out of the city’s established all-white institutions. The Conservatory is a crucial part of that story and was a major contributor to the “Black Broadway” era of DC history, centered on nearby U Street NW.

Mary Church Terrell’s remarks at the dedication of the Conservatory | Library of Congress

Mary Church Terrell’s remarks at the dedication of the Conservatory | Library of Congress

Harriet Gibbs | Oberlin College Archives.

Harriet Gibbs | Oberlin College Archives.

The founder of the Washington Conservatory was Harriet Gibbs. Born in Vancouver, British Columbia to American parents but educated in Ohio including at the Oberlin Conservatory of Music, Gibbs landed in the District of Columbia by 1900. By the time she arrived, she had already traveled the world while studying and performing, and was considered an accomplished pianist with over a decade of experience as a music educator.

Gibbs initially ran the Washington Conservatory of Music from studios inside True Reformer Hall at 1200 U Street NW, just blocks away. By 1904, the institution grew and moved into 902 T Street NW, a stunning and beautiful building donated to the Conservatory by Gibbs’ father.

In addition to musical history, with an emphasis on Black musical history, students at the Conservatory received instruction in strings, piano, voice, pipe organ, and wind instruments, among others. Instruction was a true combination of both Western/European music traditions and African American musical traditions. After a new program was added for rhetorical skills and public speaking, the name of the institution was changed to the Washington Conservatory of Music and School of Expression.

The Conservatory helped consolidate funding for the concert music scene for Black artists in Washington. Previously performances, training, and schooling were sponsored by various institutions including Black churches as well as Howard University.

Advertisement in the Washington Bee, 1910 | Library of Congress.

Advertisement in the Washington Bee, 1910 | Library of Congress.

In the Conservatory’s first years, Gibbs and the other founding faculty tried to strike a balance between student recitals and hosting better known, traveling artists and orators, all while maintaining financial stability as a privately run school. The faculty worked as tirelessly as Gibbs herself.

Early faculty member Emma Azalia Hackley made the long commute from Philadelphia to teach for a full academic year; an assignment she considered a privilege. At the pinnacle of its existence, the Conservatory would host up to 175 students with fourteen faculty members operating out of the T Street building.

One of the early directors of the Conservatory was Mary (aka Mamie) Burrill.

In 1906, Harriet Gibbs married Napoleon Bonaparte Marshall, a famed Harvard graduate, lawyer, and eventual World War I veteran and diplomat. They moved to New York City soon after. Post war, the Marshalls moved to Haiti (1922-1928) when Napoleon received assignment from President Harding. Ever the educator, Harriet Gibbs Marshall founded a school in Port-au-Prince and in 1930, and even authored a book on the history of Haiti, titled The Story of Haiti. She returned her full focus to the Washington Conservatory of Music after her husband’s death n 1933.

In Gibbs Marshall’s absence Burrill, another lifelong educator, ran the school from 1907 through 1911. The first commencement of the Conservatory happened under her tenure in 1910. The ceremony was held at Metropolitan A.M.E. church to an audience of nearly 2,000 people. After serving at the Conservatory, Burrill was likely best known for being a playwright. In 1919, They That Sit in Darkness was first published, landing in Margaret Sanger's Birth Control Review. The one act play is considered to be one of the earliest explicitly feminist plays by a Black playwright. The Conservatory’s success was largely due to the undeniable attraction of talented artists from around the nation, not just as students, but faculty and administration.

I am planning another separate post on Mary Burrill  (left) and her partner Lucy Diggs Slowe. Pictured here at their home in Brookland, DC

I am planning another separate post on Mary Burrill (left) and her partner Lucy Diggs Slowe. Pictured here at their home in Brookland, DC

Capt. Napoleon Bonaparte Marshall.  Lawyer, war veteran, athlete, diplomat, and husband of Harriet Gibbs | The American Negro in the World War

Capt. Napoleon Bonaparte Marshall. Lawyer, war veteran, athlete, diplomat, and husband of Harriet Gibbs | The American Negro in the World War

In 1941 Gibbs, then known as Harriet Gibbs Marshall, died aged 73 years. While the Conservatory continued under the leadership of her cousin, Josephine Muse, it ultimately closed in 1960 after Muse passed away. The Conservatory’s records and materials live on at Howard University’s Moorland-Springarn Research Center. Both Harriet and Napoleon were laid to rest just a few miles from the old Conservatory at Arlington National Cemetery, Section 4.

The Washington Conservatory of Music and School Expression is not to be confused with the modern (c. 1984) non-profit organization Washington Conservatory of Music located in Bethesda, MD

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Advertisement listed in The Crisis, May 1913

Advertisement listed in The Crisis, May 1913

902 T Street NW, former home of the Washington Conservatory of Music and School of Expression.

902 T Street NW, former home of the Washington Conservatory of Music and School of Expression.

Read more:
The Washington Conservatory of Music and School of Expression | JSTOR
Cultivating Music in America: Women Patrons and Activists | Univ. of California Press
Harriette Gibbs Marshall | Oberlin College Library
Washington Conservatory of Music | Howard Moorland-Spingarn Research Center
Burrill, Mary P. ( Mamie Burrill) | Oxford African American Studies Center
A reading of Burrill's They That Sit in Darkness. | Triad Stage (Wilmington, NC).